WHBM Perfect Cropped Pants for Short-Shinners

Hey everybody! 

If you've followed my "Tips & Tricks" posts (see here, here, here and here) about finding and taking advantage of your ideal skirt length, you know what I mean by "short-shinner" (your thighs are longer than your shins) and "long-shinner" (your shins are longer than your thighs).  You also know that the same body proportioning ideas also determine your ideal cropped pants/capris length, too.  One length doesn't flatter everyone.

You'd think that womens' clothing retailers would wise up to this very basic idea and offer cropped pants or capris in more than one length, as they often do with shorts.  Yet they generally don't, aside from sometimes offering a petite version.  And buying the petite version isn't always a good solution for the short-shinner looking for a cropped pant, because petite pants are shorter in the stride, too.

White House Black Market to the rescue!  In their newest rollout they're offering cropped pants styles in several lengths! The entire collection (including some very cute cropped jeggings and denim pedal pushers) can be seen here.

I'll just point out a couple of stand-outs for short-shinners and one versatile style that will work pretty darned well for everyone.  Currently all of these are at full price, but they're worthy of bookmarking and sale-stalking.  WHBM allows online review posting, too, so keep an eye out for that good feedback.

Especially For Short-Shinners:

Cotton Twill Cargo Pedal Pushers ($78)  17" inseam, a very flattering length for short-shinners! Cute rear pockets and grosgrain ribbons to cinch the pants at the bottom.  Available in black, white and "canyon" (think J. Crew's Sandalwood colorway).

Notice that while the model's Natural Ankle Wrap Wedges ($88) are tall and chunky, they're in a neutral, leg-blending color (which helps to negate the "chopping off" effect of the ankle strap), and they boast slender, very girlie ribbon-wrap straps. See how they add a couple of visual inches to her lower leg? Really good choice!

Another view of the shoe.  I would soooooo fall off of this shoe and break my ankle, y'all.  Seriously. :-)

Bi-Stretch Twill Pedal Pushers ($74)  Same 17" inseam length; a little spandex added.  Simple and clean lines with a notched hem.

Her black wedges work, even though they're anything BUT leg-blending and even though they definitely have the horizontal "chopping off" effect at the ankle.  Why? Because despite their height they're quite delicate with not a whole lot of black showing, and because they dramatically lift her foot "Barbie-style" as if she were wearing tall pumps.  See how they make the top of her foot visible so that her feet "extend" her lower legs?


Another view showing the insanely feminine and also insanely tall Silk Raffia Bow Wedges ($88).















Wearable by Everyone:

Zouave Cargo Pants ($88) (Note that there is another pair of pants ($80) at WHBM with the very same name -- weird, like J. Crew's two same-named Safari Shirtdresses -- but it's not as narrow-legged).

This slim pant features a 25" inseam with some classically "zouave"-styled details, like the elasticized side leg hem with snaps which is designed to be pushed up the leg the way you'd push up your sweater sleeve, so that the pant legs "blouse" just slightly -- known as a "blouson" effect.  Worn full-length (as in the photo), 25" is ideally a better length for long-shinners.  But most short-shinners can also wear this pant effectively -- just take advantage of the Zouave style and push the hems up a little!


Side views show the cargo pocket detail and slender leg.

And yet another pair of adorable, 3.5" tall shoes, the Faux Patent Bow Espadrille Wedge ($88, apparently WHBM's favorite go-to price point!)  This shoe would also be an acceptable choice for short-shinners because there's some elevation of the foot and there's a lot of foot and very little shoe showing from the front view.

I'm hoping to get by WHBM in the next few days, and if I do I'll get some IRL pix for you.

Enjoy!

WHBM Perfect Cropped Pants for Short-Shinners

Crazy for Camo(fleur & Revas)!

Crazy for Camo by JCAUNCMom

Doing a little clothes planning for my niece's college graduation weekend in Delaware, coming up in mid-May.  I figure the weather for our casual Friday evening family get-together could still be really unpredictable, maybe even chilly -- a great chance to pack a cardi that hasn't gotten much use yet!

I did, and I do, have a buying ban in place, but as I've sorted out my spring closet I've made a handful of exceptions for pieces that I know will bring new "oomph" to things I already own -- like these Tory Burch Camo Revas.  I spotted them marked down to $94 when Tory Burch recently had a "Private Sale", and at that price I jumped.  I know camo's a trend, but these cuties weren't a huge risk for me because, heck, at least half my closet is some variation on colors like "Fatigue" and "Olive Moss".  

A couple of days later I discovered Patina's adorable PV set featuring these shoes and the J. Crew Camofleur tee -- a late winter/early spring 2011 item that I swear I don't even remember seeing online or in the stores.  I was happy to find it reasonably priced on eBay from one of my favorite sellers, and can I tell you, this is a precious little tee -- bateau neckline, 3/4 sleeves, very flattering just-right-clingy cotton jersey, not too thin, a little sprinkling of clear sequins.  Perfection.

If you own these Revas, the color "Hawthorn green" in the current J. Crew roll-out looks wonderful with them and is a nice change of pace from Army green.  Some shades of khaki look great, too, and of course black.

And if you don't own these shoes but want to, I see that there are several pair on eBay -- not for $94, but still, available, along with the equally-cute TB camo cross-body mini-bag.

Just enabling.  ;-)

Crazy for Camo(fleur & Revas)!

Crisscross Simple

Crisscross Simple by JCAUNCMom

More simple options for accessorizing the J. Crew Crisscross Dress. I'm continuing to play with ideas from my own closet for creating that pretty and feminine retro 50's look of flats with a natural-waisted, swirling-skirted dress. I happen to have a lot of red accessories, but yellow, spring green or turquoise would be equally pretty, I think.

This easy (and by the way perfectly packable) dress is on sale right now and probably will be priced even lower at some point, since it's in full supply in all colors.  If you haven't already, do give it a look.

Last Saturday my local B&M only had it stocked in the navy (which is really a lovely and dark but warm navy), but it was a popular item, apparently.  When I zipped back to the dressing room with it, two other women were also trying it on.  So we all modeled it for each other.  The dress looked cute as a button on all three of us, and we all bought it.  Their body types were totally different from mine, too, so this was an especially fun, worthwhile and interesting little coincidental experience.

I'd have included my beloved J. Crew City Ballet Flats in Pewter in this Polyvore set, but I have worn those dear puppies out at last.  They've been resoled and polished and moisturized to pieces, and I've even touched up the toes (which I tend to scuff up like a five-year-old) with a metallic paint pen from Michael's -- the genius suggestion of a crafty friend of mine.  Alas, they're just old and tired and deserve retiring.  But what a perfect little shoe that was!

Crisscross Simple

Red White & Blue Garden Party with the Crisscross Dress

Red White & Blue Garden Party with the Crisscross Dress by JCAUNCMom

Before my Mickey card expired I broke my shopping ban and found a few unexpectedly fun items at my B&M this weekend. One such item was the much-discussed, often disliked Crisscross Dress (size S; I could have done the XS but they didn't have it, and the fabric's kinda forgiving in either sizing direction.)

I know YMMV, but with my broad shoulders (and even with me being short-waisted), the dress is really cute and flattering on me all by itself.  IRL pics coming soon, cross my heart.  But my PS sealed the sale by pairing it (to me, surprisingly) with the Schoolboy Eyelet Blazer in crisp white. With the blazer sleeves gently pushed up, the two are really an adorable combo and both went home with me.  I'm going to have a tiny hook & eye put into the X-bodice of the dress to keep the neckline secured.

So I'm going to cycling class at 6:00 but stole 15 minutes to just play around online with this dress, and found some terrific ruby patent-leather shoes, bag, sunglasses and a wonderful necklace and bracelet (I'd wear one or the other, not both) from the new spring line at White House Black Market. Add a cute J. Crew summer straw hat and I'm ready for a July 4th garden party!

I also own the very low-vamped ("cleavage" ;-)) Salina patent ballet flats from '08 in the bright red color (not a ruby-red like these accessories), and I think they'd be quite cute with the dress (with or without the jacket), the WHBM bracelet and some simple silver hoop earrings.  A more casual, very retro '50's look wearing the cinch-waisted V-neck swingy dress and flats, n'est ce pas?

Red White & Blue Garden Party with the Crisscross Dress

4-11-11 J. Crew For Sale!

4-11-11 J. Crew For Sale! by JCAUNCMom

J Crew cotton cardigan sweater
$100 - jcrew.com

J Crew cotton blouse
$78 - jcrew.com

J Crew top
$18 - jcrew.com

J Crew blazer jacket
$168 - jcrew.com

J Crew canvas jacket
$148 - jcrew.com

J Crew ballet flat shoes
$80 - jcrew.com

sale - AllProducts - Georgia cardigan - J.Crew
$78 - jcrew.com

Part I of a major closet clean-out, so stay tuned!

Hoping to find good homes for these pretty things in the JCA community. I'll list anything unsold here on eBay, in some cases for higher prices.

All items are J. Crew retail and all are from my closet. In most cases I bought the wrong size or have changed sizes since buying the item. A couple can only be explained as hormonal purchases because they never looked good on me.

Shipping by USPS Priority Mail, $5 Flat Rate shipping per large envelope. Whatever I can safely fit into one envelope, I'll fit. Each jacket will take most of an envelope, please note.

Send questions or offers to jcauncmom@gmail.com. All offers are welcome and will be considered! THANKS!

1. NWT Crocodile Jacket, size 6 (Spg '09), $100

2. NWOT Atelier Jacket, size 6 (Spg '09), $95 (exact same body style as Crocodile, bought both at same time; both adorable and in pristine condition. Wore Atelier once.)

3. EUC Contrast Stitch Perfect Shirt, size 10 (Spg '09), $30 (rare, rare find -- the true "perfect shirt" that my then-PS talked me into buying at least a size too big; have worn 2 - 3 times and dry-cleaned each time (it's machine washable but I love the crispness), and recently I was thrilled to buy this shirt in a smaller size from another JCA. If you're a 10, this is seriously your lucky day.)

4. VGUC Jackie Cotton Shell, Navy, size M, $10 (bought in Spg '10 and wore/washed several times.)

5. EUC Lester’s Hat Shop Tissue Tee, size S, $15 (Spg/Sum ’10)(worn/washed once.)

6. EUC Salina iridescent Patent Ballet Flats in Guava/Blush, size 8, $40 (Spg ’08)(Fabulous summer neutral -- bought these on eBay and was so excited, but have worn a few times and they’re a ½ size too short. Drat.)

7. EUC Perfect Fit Tank in Guava/Blush, size M, $5 (Spg ’09, worn/washed 2 – 3 times)

8. NWT Georgia Cardigan in Bistro Orange, size M, $5 (Sum ’09)(PLEASE NOTE: I’m essentially giving this sweater away because, apparently, it “grows” on the hanger. It came to me (for a lot more $$) from an eBay seller with some “growth” in the length of the body and the arms. Imagine my unhappy surprise. I think this could probably be reshaped from wet, but I’ve left the tags on it and haven’t tried. Or if you’re tall with long arms, it’s perfect for you as-is. ☺)

4-11-11 J. Crew For Sale!

Maritime Movie Night

Maritime Movie Night by JCAUNCMom featuring the J. Crew Maritime Dress

Wish I had an IRL pic for you, but alas, forgot to take it.  I promise next time I wear this adorable dress you'll see it on me.  So comfy I almost wore it as jammies. :-)  I wore it for the first time last night when Hubby and I went to see the new Jake Gyllenhaal thriller "Source Code".  Great popcorn flick!

Maritime Movie Night

Tips & Tricks for Everybody: Skirt Length Rules FAQ's (Part 4) - More On Shoes & Legwear

Here's the last installment in the FAQ's about the "Skirt Length" Rules -- and this post is for EVERYONE!
 
Shoe & Legwear Guidelines for:
(1)  Maxi skirts and dresses
(2)  Wider-legged capris (which I really don't recommend, but I see that the 'gaucho' look is back)
(3)  Wider-legged pants
(4)  Calf-length, fuller-skirted skirts and dresses


Everybody
Surprise!  The footwear and legwear guidelines for this category for everyone are the same!  Why?  Because regardless of your leg length proportions, these clothing categories will tend to add visual bulk and width to your entire hip-to-foot area.

So all of us will want our footwear and legwear to help us counteract that no-so-flattering "widescreen effect".  We're aiming for either of two equally-acceptable visual goals:  (1) We want to float or skim the floor with disappearing, barely noticeable feet ("weightless footwear"); or (2) we want to be firmly and noticeably anchored to the floor ("gravity footwear").

Let's look first at legwear:  Ideally, match or blend legs with your shoe color.  Why? Because your clothing is already creating a horizontal line near the bottom of your leg, so you don't want to add yet another horizontal line where your leg and shoe "break".

Footwear:  Choose "extremes" footwear -- meaning:

"Weightless footwear" -- Ethereal little bits of shoe that barely add anything to our feet, and the more neutral or quiet the color, the better.  Examples:  ballet shoes, or flat sandals either with a lot of skinny straps or with just a few wider straps.  Notice the footwear choice J. Crew showed with the dreamy Rose Trellis Taryn dress in the picture at right.  Dark, but really just a wisp of leather and no heel at all.  Perfect floaty choice.

On the other "extreme", your choice would be "gravity footwear" with a lot of heft and substance, both literally and visually.  Examples:  wedges, riding boots, booties, shooties or other high-vamped shoes/boots with a flat heel or a chunky heel.  Notice how J. Crew styles the gaucho jean for Spring/Summer 2011.  Very chunky, high-vamped sandal with a lot of dark leather showing, a lot of "heft" to the body and the heel.

And one last tip:  With these types of clothes, we should all avoid skinny or kitten heels of any height, which make us look like we're teeter-tottering on tippy-toe with yards of fabric swirling around us.  The higher the heel, of course, the more that's the look.  Visualize a pretty bunch of barely-tied-down party balloons in the breeze.  Not what we're going for. :-)

That's a wrap, y'all -- for now, the end of these FAQ's.  I hope they're helpful guidelines for you.  If you've got questions or requests for future "Tips & Tricks" posts, please e-mail me at jcauncmom@gmail.com!

Tips & Tricks for Everybody: Skirt Length Rules FAQ's (Part 4) - More On Shoes & Legwear

Tips & Tricks for Long Shinners: Skirt Length Rules FAQ's (Part 3) - Shoes & Legwear

Good morning, everybody! Continuing the edited FAQ's about the infamous "skirt length rules", this post will focus on lovely long-shinners.

Question: "I feel like my shoes really change the way my skirt lengths look on me.  Am I right, and if so how do I pick shoes?"

Answer:  Footwear and legwear can make a huge difference in how the proportioning of your body looks in your overall ensemble. 

By the way, to you lucky and rare neutral-shinners out there who have a balanced measurement in your upper and lower legs:  Do read on, but know that you can experiment with short-shinner AND long-shinner "looks" and probably carry most of them off beautifully!

Shoe and Legwear Guidelines for:
(1)  Shorter skirts and dresses(remember what "shorter" means for you!)
(2)  Narrow-legged capris
(3)  Narrow-legged full-length pants, and
(3)  Narrow-skirted mid-calf skirts and dresses

Long-shinners
Guiding words for you:  High Vamp Shoes, High Contrast Legwear

Long-shinner lovelies, in contrast to your short-shinner friends, you don’t want or need for your footwear and legwear to appear to extend the length of your lower legs. 

Footwear:  High vamp shoes (in any heel height) are your friends.  These are, of course, are just the opposite of low vamp shoes -- they're footwear that comes up high onto the top of your foot.  Examples are shooties, booties, oxfords of every heel height, and most sneakers. "Less you, more shoe" is your mantra, and these styles take a few inches off the apparent length of your leg by "chopping it off at your foot" (sorry, effective but awful image!)

I mentioned that sneakers are almost always a high-vamp shoe, and they deserve a special shout-out for you.  While short-shinners are going to look better (and instinctively prefer) a no-sock or no-show sock look with their sneakers, YOU are the gals who are going to look precious in a high-top sneaker, a sneaker paired with some contrasting-colored ankle socks, or even brighter-colored or patterned sneakers.  Lucky ducks. :-)

Legwear:  Pairing your high vamp footwear with contrasting colors or tones (little color, strong color) in legwear, socks or pants will create a flattering visual “break” between your leg and foot.  You're the gals who can wear gorgeous two-toned oxfords with a nude leg, bright socks or tights, capris or a shorter skirt.

That's it, ladies -- pretty simple if you remember those four guiding words!  Try them and see how they work for you.  Of course, how you wear your own wardrobe can't simply be dictated by a set of math-based visual proportioning tricks.  Only you can decide how all of this jives with your own tastes.  So use what helps you feel and look like your best YOU, and toss the rest.  Compromise is A-OK because the most important rule is this: You should love it if you're gonna own it and wear it!

Please e-mail me at jcauncmom@gmail.com if you have more questions about any of the concepts I've discussed, other wardrobe "fit" questions, or requests for future wardrobe tips & tricks posts!

Tips & Tricks for Long Shinners: Skirt Length Rules FAQ's (Part 3) - Shoes & Legwear

Tips & Tricks for Short-Shinners: Skirt Length Rules FAQ's (Part 2) - Shoes & Legwear

Today's edited Parts 2, 3 and 4 in the FAQ's about the "skirt length rules" will take a look at the often-overlooked importance of how your choice of shoes and legwear affects the visual proportioning of your body.  We'll focus on short-shinners first, because they (I should say "we", because this is my category) are the majority of women out there.

By the way, to you lucky and rare neutral-shinners out there who have a balanced measurement in your upper and lower legs:  Do read on, but know that you can experiment with both the short-shinner and long-shinner "looks" and probably carry most of them off beautifully!

Question: "I feel like my shoes really change the way my skirt lengths look on me.  Am I right, and if so how do I pick shoes?"

Answer:  Footwear and legwear can make a huge difference in how the proportioning of your body looks in your overall ensemble. 

Shoe and Legwear Guidelines for:
(1)  Shorter skirts and dresses(remember what "shorter" means for you!)
(2)  Narrow-legged capris
(3)  Narrow-legged full-length pants, and
(3)  Narrow-skirted mid-calf skirts and dresses

Short-shinners
Guiding words for you: Low Vamp Shoes, Low Contrast Legwear

My thanks to the Mothership for this image!

Footwear:  A shoe that shows a lot of the top of your foot is known to shoemakers as a “low vamp” shoe.  And short-shinners, especially with these strong-horizontal-lined categories of clothing, this is YOUR footwear because a low vamp shoe adds visual length to your lower leg -- perfect to promote your visual goal of "more you, less shoe"!  Classic low vamp examples:  Ballet flats -- the most extreme low vamp of which are the infamous "toe cleavage" ballet flats -- and the J. Crew Juliet-style mid- to high-heeled pump.  The "more you, less shoe" effect is even more powerful in tall low vamp heels, because the top of your foot's visible in the semi-vertical position.

Legwear:  Minimize the contrast between shoe color and leg color.  Aim to blend or match the color of your legs (socks, tights or full-length pants legs) to the color of your shoes.  Shoes that contrast too much with the color on your legs will increase the appearance that your legs are weirdly cut off too soon. 

The only no-fail exception to the short-shinners' low vamp-low contrast guideline is wearing a low vamp, high-heeled pump with a nude leg.  That's an exceptionally pretty look on a short-shinner because it so dramatically elongates the lower leg. 

High vamp shoes, of course, are just the opposite of low vamp shoes -- they're footwear that comes up high onto the top of your foot.  Examples are shooties, booties, oxfords of every heel height, and most sneakers.  The worst visual-proportioning offender for short-shinners (with any clothing, actually) is the high vamp shoe worn with high-contrast legwear.   If you just looooooove and want to wear high vamp footwear (and I do, too), choose a high vamp shoe that matches or closely blends with your leg color.  Or wear low-contrasting socks and full-length pants in a color that "blends" with the shoe.  Remember, your goal is to make your leg and foot disappear into each other -- "more you, less shoe"!

I mentioned that sneakers are almost always a high-vamp shoe.  So, with "more you, less shoe" in mind, short-shinners, are you having an AHA! moment?  Now you know why the reason why most women -- because most women are short-shinners -- instinctively prefer the way sneakers look worn with no socks (or no-shows).  See, your brain's telling you how to visually correct your proportions and you didn't even realize it!

I encourage you to see how these simple guidelines work for you.  Of course, how you wear your own wardrobe can't simply be dictated by a set of math-based visual proportioning tricks.  Only you can decide how all of this jives with your own tastes.  So use what helps you feel and look like your best YOU, and toss the rest.  Compromise is A-OK because the most important rule is this: You should love it if you're gonna own it and wear it!

Please e-mail me at jcauncmom@gmail.com if you have more questions about any of the concepts I've discussed, other wardrobe "fit" questions, or requests for future wardrobe tips & tricks posts!

Tips & Tricks for Short-Shinners: Skirt Length Rules FAQ's (Part 2) - Shoes & Legwear

Tips & Tricks: Skirt Length Rules FAQ's (Part 1)

Wow, is it ever true that time flies.  This past weekend I got an e-mail notice that a new comment had been made at my two-part post entitled "How to Decide Your Ideal Skirt Length" (Part I here and Part II here).  Imagine my surprise at discovering that those posts were published 18 months ago!

Since some of the best skirt-wearing times of the year are just around the corner, I thought that over the next few days I'd post some FAQ's about the "skirt length rules" and related topics.  If you haven't read my original posts, peek before you read on so that "short shinner" and "long shinner" are terms you'll understand!  And y'all, listen -- what I'm going to tell you is based upon my fairly extensive experience and education in the garment trade, but these are my opinions, and you're entitled to decide that you disagree.  I only ask that you do so respectfully. :-)

1.   Question:  “[F]or the top [leg] measurement, are you talking about [measuring from] the top of the hip above the bellybutton or lower down? I'm coming up with 21" on top and 14" on the bottom which seems crazy!?!”

Answer:  Those measurements aren’t crazy at all for a short-shinner!  Measure your upper leg length from the middle of your kneecap upwards to the protruding (you can feel it even you can’t see it) part of your outer hipbone that is just below your bellybutton.  To put it another way -- see on this illustration how your pelvis is shaped kind of like an abstract pair of Mickey Mouse ears?  You’re measuring from the upper-outer corner of either one of the Mickey Mouse ears (right around what's labeled -- and misspelled -- here as the "spina ilaca"), down to the middle of your kneecap on the same side.

2.   Question:  "How does the "skirt length rule" apply to wearing shorts?"

Answer:  Use the same skirt length rule to determine your optimal shorts length. Short-shinners will look better in shorter shorts.  Long-shinners are born to be Bermuda shorts girls.

3.   Question: “Is there math to the right length of capris/crop pants? I have never -- as in, ever -- had any idea how long they should be on me...”

Answer:  Yep, the same "visual proportioning" rules and some related concepts apply for wearing capris.

Short-shinners

Capri length:  To visually correct your proportions, you’re gonna want more of your lower leg to show.  So hem or roll your capris so that they stop at the fullest part of your calf, leaving a nice “swell” of calf and showing.  Try on a pair of your J. Crew café capris, roll the leg to the length I'm suggesting and look at the difference 2 - 3 inches makes!

Capri leg width:  I realize this is mildly controversial, but I promise you, short-shinners, you're going to look better in narrow-legged capris even if you're a girl with some hips.  Why?  Because the more closely the hem of your capris hugs your legs, the more it appears that your capris and your legs are one nice, elongated visual unit.  A wider pants leg visually chops up the line of your leg, much like a skirt hem does. 

Long-shinners

Capri length:  Your thighs are longer than your calves, so you want to visually shorten your lower leg by having less of it showing.  Therefore, your capris are going to look better in a lower-hitting hem -- one that ends between the smaller tapering part of your calf and no less than about 4 inches above the "knob" of your ankle. 

Capri leg width:  Surprise!  Long-shinners, you are ALSO going to look best in a narrower capri leg, but you can successfully carry off a bit more width than your short-shinned friends (say, a stovepipe-shaped pant leg).

And let me just say this to everybody -- again, perhaps igniting a flame war, but I'm sticking to this opinion like Custer's Last Stand:  A wide-legged cropped pant is simply not an optimal look on any woman.  For that matter, cuffs on a cropped pant of any width aren't great, either -- they add bulk at just the wrong place, unless they're skinnied-up in that mysterious folding trick that J. Crew uses.  Promise me that if you're just jonesing to wear wide-legged capris, you'll at least pay close attention to where they're hemmed.

4.  Question:  "How does your [hemline] rule apply to wearing longer skirts?"

Answer:  Just like it applies to capris.

Short-shinners

To hem a below-the-knee skirt, apply the "capris rules".  Allow as much of your lower leg to show as you can without significantly altering the "look" and flow of your skirt.

Long-shinners

Apply your "capris rules".  Stop the hemline no lower than about 4 inches above the "knob" of your ankle.

That's it for now, y'all.   Part 2 coming tomorrow.  Stay tuned!

Tips & Tricks: Skirt Length Rules FAQ's (Part 1)